Imagine a watch that not only turns heads but also sparks debates among fashion insiders and horology enthusiasts alike—welcome to the Louis Vuitton Monterey, the hottest reissue piece of the year, and it's Jeremy Allen White who's stealing the spotlight. But here's where it gets interesting: Did this timepiece really need a celebrity boost, or was it already destined for greatness?
While it was rapper and fashion icon Tyler, the Creator (or TikTok personality Mike Nouveau for the deep divers) who first fanned the flames of interest in the Monterey, it's actor Jeremy Allen White who's truly basking in its renewed glory. Let's rewind back to 2023 when Tyler rocked a neo-vintage version of this watch that Louis Vuitton originally unveiled in 1988. Paired with a viral TikTok clip from Nouveau, where a savvy stranger rejected a huge offer for a classic Monterey, the model skyrocketed to become one of 2024's most sought-after items. Its resale prices? Off the charts, proving just how coveted it had become. Smartly capitalizing on this buzz, Louis Vuitton brought back the watch this year, elevating its luxury appeal dramatically. The updated edition swaps the ceramic case for a sleek solid gold one, features an exquisite enamel dial, and boasts an in-house movement crafted by La Fabriques du Temps—that's the precision engineering arm acquired by LVMH in 2011, led by watchmaking legends Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. And now, thanks to influencers like Jeremy Allen White, the Monterey is popping up everywhere once more.
By Frazer Harrison
The Monterey feels like a perfect match for someone like Jeremy Allen White, who's clearly passionate about the stylish aspects of watch collecting. He's worn Louis Vuitton pieces before, such as the elegantly revamped Tambour during a US Open attendance, and at awards galas, he's chosen beauties like Bulgari's signature Bulgari model or Tiffany & Co.'s delicate cocktail watches and their more playful Union Square designs. These selections emphasize aesthetic charm over intricate features that might wow at a watch geek gathering. Yet, the Monterey stands out as a rare gem that balances both elegance and technical prowess effortlessly.
But what exactly is the Monterey, and why does it captivate so many? Designed by the visionary Italian industrial designer Gae Aulenti—the creative genius who transformed Paris's Gare d'Orsay into the world-famous Musée d'Orsay—this model originally came in two distinct versions: the LV I and the LV II. Both are fascinatingly complex watches, with the LV I offering world time, GMT functions, and date readouts, while the LV II combines standard timekeeping with an alarm feature. Beyond their functionality, they're powered by quartz technology (a hallmark of the '80s era) and encased in white or yellow gold (for the LV I) or striking green ceramic (for the LV II). And this is the part most people miss: It's the watch's quirky, innertube-like appearance that gives it that undeniable cool factor, setting it apart from more conventional designs.
When Louis Vuitton revived the Monterey earlier this year, they streamlined it while cranking up the sophistication: Clocking in at a comfortable 39 mm diameter in 18K yellow gold, it keeps the original's nod to pocket watches with a crown positioned at 12 o'clock. Gone are the extra complications, replaced by a premium grand feu enamel dial—think layers of vitreous enamel powder baked at an intense 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit in a kiln for that flawless, glossy finish. The chemin de fer minute track (that's the track around the dial's edge for minutes) and black Arabic numerals evoke the charm of an antique pocket watch, perhaps one that Louis Vuitton himself might have carried in the 19th century. Meanwhile, vibrant red and blue accents add a modern twist, transforming the busy original dials into a streamlined, contemporary look that screams Louis Vuitton's evolution under LVMH.
The new Monterey also winks at dedicated watch aficionados. Unlike the original's battery-reliant quartz movement, this version runs on an automatic Calibre LFTMA01.02, engineered by Louis Vuitton's own La Fabriques du Temps. Even though it's tucked away behind a solid caseback, it's a masterpiece inside—with an 18K rose gold rotor, 45 hours of power reserve, and a smooth 4 Hz beat rate (for beginners, that means it ticks 28,800 times per hour for precise accuracy). In short, no matter the angle, the new Monterey is a stunning, noteworthy invention, reflected in its hefty $59,000 price tag.
Sized just right, looking dapper on its black pebbled leather strap, crafted with care, and equipped with a robust movement that appeals to horology buffs, the Louis Vuitton Monterey embodies the ultimate 'It' watch for 2025. And if Louis Vuitton wasn't already sold out before Jeremy Allen White sported one at last night's 16th Annual Governors Awards, they surely are now. But here's where it gets controversial: Is paying nearly $60,000 for a watch justifiable, especially when it simplifies features from its quirky originals? Does this reissue dilute the vintage charm that made the Monterey so special, or elevate it to new heights? And most people miss this—does celebrity endorsement truly drive value, or is it just a hype machine? What do you think? Do you agree that the Monterey deserves its status as a must-have, or is the price tag simply outrageous? Share your thoughts in the comments—we'd love to hear if you're team hype or team skepticism!
